Tasting Lab: Singbulli Flowery 2025

Light and floral, with a distinctly green character, the effects of the growing region and processing style of Darjeeling shape their teas into something very unique, unlike anything else we would call 'black tea'. They’re a rare treat. We carry Margaret's Hope first flush and second flush year round, and I'm glad I've got the Tasting Lab platform to showcase some more of what Darjeeling has to offer. This Singbulli Flowery was plucked and processed only a few short months ago, at the beginning of 2025, and exemplifies some of the fresh florals and distinctive muscatel flavours Darjeelings are prized for.

A district of West Bengal, northern India, Darjeeling first began growing tea in the 1840s under the British Raj, with production flourishing during the1850s and 60s, dominating the auctions in the 1920s and 30s. In 1947, India gained independence, and Indian-grown tea truly came into its own, registering as an official geographical indicator (GI) in 2004. Growers have had to adapt to the unique growing conditions of the Himalayas; but this combination of terroir and processing is what makes Darjeeling teas truly stand out.

I mentioned in a previous Tasting Lab post that the style of tea processing in Darjeeling has changed noticeably over the course of the nearly two centuries it has been active. It's generally accepted that crux of this shift happened around the 1950s-1960s, and the catalyst can be attributed to a number of forces: As India gained independence, the British shifted focus away from India and began exploring growing tea in Africa. This opened up Darjeeling's market considerably. Darjeeling's high altitude and cool temperatures in the early spring make processing tricky, and output low. Grown in the high mountains, the tea shrub is forced to go into hibernation to survive the colder months. This period of dormancy and activity forms the 'flushes' the tea is known for, concentrating volatiles in the young leaves that produce this aromatic tea. Although it was generally recognized that the cool weather, slow growth, and winter dormancy were all positive contributors to Darjeeling's quality, in the early days, the first picking was considered not ideal, often favouring the second flush onward.

We can see evidence of this in earlier tea manuals; they also give us an idea of what qualities were prized at the time. The British were well-known to like a dark cup that took well to milk and sugar. William Ukers' 1935 All About Tea describes "...the choicest Darjeelings sold at the fanciest prices, the best of which are entirely black. If the tea is tippy, the tips should be golden, long, and well twisted." And a bit earlier in the book, "In character, Darjeelings are full-bodied, possessing rather a rich, red liquor, together with a delicious and indescribable flavor peculiarly marked as their own—a flavor sometimes referred to as 'nutty.'" (Ukers, 1935) Both descriptions are certainly a far cry from the modern Darjeeling, with its mottled brown, olive to jade leaf, and a yellow to pale orange liquor, depending on the first or second flush. Whittingham & Co's 1882 The Art of Tea Blending similarly describes the leaf as blacker than Assam's, and the liquor full and flavoury. The manual even praises low-grown Darjeelings (from the surrounding region of Terai) to be superior to high grown! (Whittingham, 1882) I could go on, as there are many more sources to pull from. But each paints a picture very different from the modern first and second flush.

With the shift in market in the 1950s, opening up to new tastes, Darjeeling was able to experiment with production. This new style of tea is often joint-attributed to tea maker Ranabir Sen and tea wholesaler Bernd Wulf, though there's evidence from many of these earlier books, named above, as well as later works like C.R. Harler's Tea Manufacture, that production in Darjeeling was already being tweaked to account for the unique climate and temperatures. Notes on Tea in Darjeeling by a Planter (1888) quotes "...it is impossible to lay down any fixed rules for manufacturing as the climate and elevation makes so much difference to the teas ... nowadays strong teas are generally demanded, but some estates which make mild, flavoury and pretty teas get splendid prices". (Roy 1888)

However the work of Sen and Wulf saw an already long withering became even longer, until the leaves were well past wilted and pliable. This allowed for a gentler rolling, followed by a short oxidation period, and light firing, all in order to preserve the aroma of the teas. These changes in processing begins to sound a little like many oolong teas, and the comparison holds when you sip these teas side by side. Preserving aroma and flavour over body in the cup, and highlighting gentle flowery and fruity notes in the finished tea. If you have the time, I’d suggest a tasting comparison. Both first and second flushes hold similarities. I'd suggest our Ti Kuan Yin with either first flush (Singbulli or Margaret's Hope!), and Oriental Beauty paired with Darjeeling Estate.

Those who already drink our Margaret’s Hope First Flush will find this tea an interesting treat, two first flush teas from different estates. It's a great comparison--and comparing teas is a great way to develop your own sense of taste and palate. Personally, I found Margaret’s Hope a little spicier, with slight nutmeg, dried herbs, and a nutty finish, and slightly fuller body than Singbulli. A little more orange in the cup, and a deeper flavour. The ‘Flowery’ style from Singbulli emphasizes its floral notes, with a slightly greener overall cup. It opens with similar herby notes, more fresh than dried, and white florals, jasminey, elderflower, less heady and sweet, more a sharp, pungent garden. Dried hay accompanies it, giving this tea qualities similar to our White Peony, but finishing with a refreshing astringency. The delicate notes of first flush Darjeelings are not long-lived, making this tea extra limited.

Thank you as always for following along with my geeky history and tea adventures. For those further interested in tea history--like me--I've included a couple interesting sources for further reading, most available in the public domain.

Further Reading

• All About Tea (Vol 1, 2) by William Ukers (1935)
• The Art of Tea Blending by Whittingham & Co (1882)
• Tea Manufacture by C. R. Harler (1963)
• Notes on tea in Darjeeling by a planter compiled by N. L. Roy (1888)